DIY Cornhole Boards with Style | How to Make


What’s up guys I’m Brad Rodriguez from Fix This Build That and I’ve got a special guest in the shop today with me John Malecki my co-host from the Made for Profit podcast today. We are making a set of cornhole boards I’ve built a bunch of cornhole boards in my time And I thought what better project to do with Brad since it’s quick and easy and we can definitely show you guys some awesome tips Absolutely stay tuned. We’ll show you exactly how we did it We made this cornhole set from just two eight-foot two by tens and a half sheet of plywood You can also make these from two by fours But the two by tens tend to be straighter and they have a clearer grain We even had enough off cuts left over to make a ladder golf game over on John’s channel There’s a link down below in the description for that video. So go check it out After ripping each two by ten into three strips I set up an extended stop block on my minor saucepan to reach out to four feet. I cut the long boards for each set. Then I move the stop in and I cut the shorter ends After a little style we went with an inset painted top in a dark stained frame John set up to cut the rabbit recesses on the top of the frame to hold the plywood tops He ran all the boards through to establish the bottom of the rabbet first Then he moved the fence in and lined up the blade to make the side cut on the rabbet John ran all the boards through again, and we had a perfect channel for the plywood tops to lay in To cut the mitered corners for the frames, I went back to the miter saw and cut a miter on the end of each board Then I set my stop block flip the board over and made the angled cut on the other end as well using a wooden spacer block next to my metal miter stop help keep the pointed in from the miter from creeping behind it and using A clamp to hold the workpiece to the fence makes for a much smoother miter cut After John was done with an impromptu gun show we glued up the frame good help is so hard to find these days We used a band clamp to hold everything together tightly and after making sure the assembly was square We secured each corner with countersunk two and a half inch screws To cover up the screws, I went back and plugged them with three-eighths of an inch dowels I started off just putting the whole dowel in there and cutting it off, but I was a little bit too finicky So I switched over to cutting the Dow’s first and then hammering them in But you might want to consider beveling the edges first to avoid this fail and the down vote. I got them all in there and I cut the plugs with my flesh cut saw I finally got that sweet thumbs-up from John Next we moved on to making the tops I cut a sheet of half-inch plywood in half in the driveway and I brought it inside to make the finish cuts on the table saw With the tops being in said we could easily get two tops out of one half sheet and still have regulation-size We test fit the tops in the frame and measure down and mark for the hole location If you want the free plans for the bill, there’s a link in the description You can get them all it has all the measurements and step-by-step instructions for you. So you’ll know exactly how to set these up To drill the six inch hole for the board’s I picked up this massive hole saw now I have a link down below in the description for this as well and all the other tools that we used With such a large hole saw though It’s really important to be careful and to keep the drill straight and true while you’re drilling it If you don’t it can bind up and if you’re not careful It can twist your wrist when it stops Now using a handle on your drill or even a router to cut the hole or other good alternatives They’re a little bit safer than using this monster after cutting the holes we ease the edges with a roundover bit and then sanded everything smooth or 150 grit sandpaper just to make sure it’s nice and smooth for the hand when you’re putting it inside to grab the boards. I painted each top with two coats of white paint and then we went back to the frame Like I mentioned earlier two by tens tend to have better grain and less knots than a typical 2×4 So the sanding here goes faster and the finished piece is going to look way nicer And also I could get used to having an extra hand in the shop It definitely makes tedious tasks like applying stain go a lot faster Now the last parts to make for the legs I rip the legs down so that they would fold up flush underneath the boards and had to account for the recess top that we put in We marked a centered hole on the end of each leg one inch down from the top and The tops of each leg are rounded to let them rotate freely to layout the curve We used a little plastic cup and just traced around it Next I drilled three eighths of an inch holes through each leg on the mark that we laid out If you’re using a hand drill here Just make sure that this hole is as straight as possible so that the legs will fold up and down smoothly jump tuck the legs over to the bandsaw and cut to the line that we laid out and this could easily be done with a jig saw as well if you don’t have a bandsaw to Cut the legs to length we need to mount one of the legs to the frame for reference We used a scrap of one by stock as a spacer Then John used the leg as a guide and drilled a hole through the frame We temporarily mounted the leg to the frame with a 3/8 inch bolt and we use the paint can and some scraps to raise the Top of the board’s up to the regulation height of 12 inches and use the edge of the workbench to mark the cut line This will make it level at this height when it’s on the ground I dialed in my miter saw and I cut all four legs with the angle that we had marked and then we knocked off the pointed ends of the legs, too So now came the tricky part applying these custom logos to the board’s We just celebrated one year of our podcast made for profit if you’re a listener. Thanks a lot for listening So we got a set of vinyl decals for our new logo and my new F TBT logo as well Then we centered and laid down the decal on the tops leaving the transfer paper as a protective barrier After that we laid out some painters tape down the length of each board so that we could do a gray accent stripe down the middle. I rolled on two coats of the gray paint above and below the logos I just painted right over the logos because they were protected by that transfer paper After the second coat was down we peeled up the painters tape to try and keep the paint from pulling away with the tape After that second coat dried. It came off pretty clean but the real chore here was pulling off the transfer paper from the vinyl the Mate for profit logo wasn’t too bad and it came up pretty cleanly and it was looking great My logo was another story altogether My logo has a ton of fine detail and some small strips of vile in it And this proved to be extremely Difficult to manage in that thin gray line around it ended up getting pulled and distorted as we worked our way around Because it just really wanted to stick to the transfer paper If I did it again, I’d probably just have them print a decal with a white background and then die-cut around the entire logo When the tops were dry. We laid down a bead of glue and the rabbet of the frame. I laid the tops in place. I secured the tops around the frame with Brad nails and I later came back and filled those holes and covered it up with some touch-up Paint I also gave each of the boards three coats of a water-based polyurethane Now the last piece was to mount the legs to the frame We pounded in a bolt from the outside and then placed the washer on both sides of the leg and a lock washer and nut on the inside to hold everything secure I love the way these boards turned out and I think the logos look really cool If you’re a cornhole purist you probably want a seamless top, but these boards still play fine But they add a ton of style in class and the real head-turners guys, if you’re not already check out the made for profit podcast We talk business in the shop and help you monetize as a maker We’ve a weekly show where we talk about hot business topics and interviews with the people that are making the biggest splash in our space If you’re not subscribed to the channel already I’d love to have you as part of the team and make sure you check out John’s channel as well Until next time guys get out there and build something awesome

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