Entry Level Comp Style Bouldering Route In-depth Breakdown with rockentry!


With the rising viewership of WorldCup competition
and the upcoming Olympics, comp style climbing is getting more and more popular. Comp style routes are more dynamic, requiring
gymnastic movements and the beta is often not straightforward. Problems are often set with large volumes
and the holds tend to be either very large or very small. Here is a breakdown of an entry-level V3/V4
comp style boulder in my local gym that I worked with a long-time viewer, Jon. For the first move, I saw a lot of people
start with the left foot on the foothold, but I like the start with the right foot better. One mistake that I see a lot of beginners
make is not knowing that you can actually use the wall with your foot. In this position, not only can the wall be
used by my left foot to balance but I can also push against the wall to generate upward
force to go up. For the next move, if you are not tall enough
to reach the next handhold directly, you have to figure out a way to bring your right foot
up the starting hold first. The most straightforward way is to lean left
and bring the right heel up, but this is very tough for the left hand because the body is
not in the optimal position to grip the left side pull. It might look like there isn’t any other
easier way to do it, right? That is why comp style routes are fun. They force you to figure out unconventional
beta based on the unique holds. Eventually, I figured out that I can actually
use the wall for my left foot to balance, and then push down with my right hand to bring
my right foot up. The next few moves are pretty straightforward
until what looks like the last move. It looks like I have no other choice but to
bring my left foot super up high and then step up to finish the climb. I worked on this move with Jon for a lot of
times but neither of us was able to do it, and we both thought it was because our hamstrings
were not flexible enough, which made us unable to get our left toes completely on top of
the hold, or maybe it was because we needed to work on our footwork in order to be comfortable
stepping on the slippery slopey hold. Fortunately, after a few days, rockentry happened
to be in town and came to the rescue. I showed him the climb and, Oh, I know what you did wrong. No, no, no, I know
what you did wrong. You put yourself in a position that you can’t
re-adjust your left hand, cause you were like this, you can’t re-adjust from here. Look at my left hand. It’s not like this. It’s like this. So the top part, when we are mantling, when
I get my left foot up on that hold, I am going like this, right, compression, but my goal
is to bring my left hand to a mantle position, and then you press, you are going to get this
locked up, and then you can release your left foot; bring your right foot over. Nice, dude, come on. Nice. Yes. Yeah, just bring your right foot over. Crossover with your right foot. Right there, press on it. Nice. Ooh, maybe you can re-adjust from there. Oh, nice. Come on. Come on. Press up. Press
up. Come on. Yes, come on. Yes, come on. Yes! Yes! Woohoo! Yes! Yo! Thanks for watching. I did another video with rockentry on his
channel. He helped me to send a climb, which requires
a really difficult dynamic move. Be sure to check it out!

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