Style Guide for the Big & Tall Man – Outfit Advice for Muscular or Portly Men

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette!
Today, we’ll be discussing the style guide for big and tall men and some of
the frustrations they might find while shopping and how to best avoid them. Many men who fall into the big and tall category often find shopping an event
that they usually want to avoid. It’s our hope to help alleviate some of this
frustration by giving you some great ways to help navigate your style. Now,
have you ever noticed that when shopping, it’s pretty difficult, sometimes, to find
a really good assortment of things in your size if you are in the big and tall
category. For example, say a 38 size waist pant or larger, even if this brand does
make that size available, there usually won’t be much physical inventory readily
available for you to purchase that day. For many years now, we’ve seen
repetitively how designers often missed the mark and take a long time to
recognize that all people are not made in the exact same shape. Because of this
lack of awareness of what their customer base actually looks like, sometimes, their
sales actually do suffer. These companies often have many men who would enjoy
shopping from them but are left with very few options. Now, thankfully, there
are some places around and more that are coming up that are catering to big and
tall men. Beyond stores themselves, there are also many ways to style yourself so
that you are feeling confident each and every day. Now, there are some great
places you can go to get a shop for Big & Tall style; some places like
Destination XL, Brooks Brothers, Men’s Wearhouse and the Nordstrom big
and tall section. Alright, now that we’ve discussed some great places to shop for
Big & Tall style, let’s move into some other categories that help you perfect
your style. Shirts, for example. Now, there are a few key areas to make mention of
when you’re trying to make sure your shirt fits appropriately. One main area
you’re going to want to focus on with your shirt is the shoulders. You want the
shoulder seams to fall naturally just off of the edge of your natural
shoulders. Now, if the shoulder seams are falling too wide and sit too long off of
your shoulders, the entire shirt starts to look a little bit too blousey. If the
shoulder seams are a little bit too short, it will affect the overall width of
the shirt and it will look too small on you. If you happen to be someone with a
larger back or happens to be a little bit more muscular, this will feel quite
uncomfortable. You might feel that there’s too much tension or pressure
across the chest or even in the armpit area. The next big area we’re going to
pay attention to is sleeve length. Now, whether you’re shopping for a casual
shirt or even a dress shirt, the same rule applies. Now, it’s best to have your
sleeve length fall about a half inch below the break in the wrist. Now, by
doing this, this ensures that when wearing a blazer or even a sweater,
you’re going to have about a quarter of an inch to maybe even 3/4 of an inch of
your shirt cuff exposed. By keeping this sleeve length, you will also ensure that
the sleeve does not feel too taut. Many times in my retail experience, I’ve seen
high quality garments being returned by customers who are a little bit
frustrated by the fact that a shirt was ripping at the exact same spot and the
biggest problem was that they’re buying their sleeve lengths too short. If a
sleeve length is too short, it causes excessive tension around the elbow area,
especially if you’re someone who works at a desk,
you might notice feeling this tension around the elbow area as you’re working
on your computer or writing at your desk. Now, the next big area we’re going to pay
attention to on the shirt is the chest. Now, if you happen to be someone who is a
more flat or narrow chested individual, you might find it’s a little bit easier
to shop for different shirt options than a more muscular individual. However, there
are times where it might be equally as frustrating for someone who is of a
narrow chest to find an appropriately fitting shirt, as well. The number one to
fix a shirt that might look too loose, the best thing you can do is ensure that
you’re in the right size and that you’re in the correct fit. If you’re still not
satisfied, consider speaking with the tailor about making minor adjustments to
the garment to make it fit better for your frame. Now, if you are an individual
who has a wide and more muscular chest, you will probably find that your issues
stem from there not being enough room in the overall total chest circumference
area of the shirt and when this happens, this usually causes a lot of gapping
between the buttons on the front of the shirt and a lot of pull lines all over
the shirt, as well. One way to resolve this is by selecting a larger neck size,
this allows for broader shoulders and also more room
in your chest. The next area we’re going to talk about is the shirt length. The
average shirt length of your button-down dress shirt is going to fall just at the
base of your backside. This is because the designer usually will account for
the fact that you’re probably going to be tucking your shirt in and to prevent
it from being untucked to give a little extra length. Next area we’re going to
talk about is the shirt width. Now, this is something that you usually won’t be
able to select too much off the rack outside of the usual classic slim or
athletic shirt width options. Now, if you’re a gentleman whose waistline
extend significantly beyond your shoulder width, custom or made-to-measure
shirts might be an option you would like to consider. The next category we’re
going to talk about is jackets. It’s important to know your best jacket size
and the exact fit you should be in. One area we want to pay attention to on the
jacket is the shoulders. You want to make sure that the shoulders are actually
falling gracefully off of your own natural shoulders. We want to avoid
extremely tight jackets which are giving a lot of weird tension around the
shoulder area. You’ll notice this is happening if you see your shoulder
almost fully protruding out of the shoulder seam itself. Now, at the same
time, we also want to make sure that we’re avoiding overly wide shoulders in
the jacket. You’ll notice this is happening but it almost seems to droop
off of your natural shoulder, almost as If you are the coat hanger. This is going to
provide way more extra room in the chest to the point where you can probably grab the
fabric, you don’t need all that excess material. Now, one area we also want to
make sure we make note of is the fit of the jacket. You want to avoid jackets
that are too tight that are causing a lot of horizontal pull lines across the
front and across the back of the jacket. Now, moving on down throughout the rest
of the outfit, we’re going to look at trousers. We want to make sure that
you’re in the correct size of trouser. Now, if you flat out don’t know your size
and you don’t want to figure it out yourself, you can always visit your local
menswear store or local tailor and ask them to give you a simple measurement
and give you an idea as to what size you should be shopping for. The ideal fitting
waist of a trouser will allow you to be able to stick about two fingers into
your waistband comfortably. This will ensure that when you put your belt on,
there’s not so much fabric that it starts to
almost have that trash bag effect but at the same time, it’s not so tight that you
feel uncomfortable sitting down or having your lunch. You also want to make
sure that you’re in the correct length or inseam of trouser. You want to make
sure that your trouser length is falling just over the top of the shoe; any
shorter and it starts to look like a bit of a high-water trouser and any longer, it looks a little bit sloppy. Now, one area to shop for these trousers and
jackets and shirts that we’ve discussed would be off the rack and some of the
stores that we listed earlier in the video or we could also go for a more
custom or bespoke route, as well. Now, choosing to decide whether or not you’re
going to go completely off the rack for your wardrobe or include a few custom
pieces are gonna come down to a few factors such as budget, time, and your
overall build. Now, off the rack, for example, it’s the one we’re almost
familiar with. It’s a very easy way to shop, we can go into a store, we can go
online and get our purchase fairly quickly and put it on and go on and
about our day. Off the rack is a very popular option, it’s seen as quick and
efficient. Now, this is often found because of how quick it is to be able to
make a purchase but also because of the low cost that’s usually involved
compared to a custom garment, custom garments are seen as something that’s
much more unique. It often involves a little bit more time and a little bit
more money but the uniqueness usually wins out.
Although custom garments are usually much more expensive than off the rack
items, I do recommend if you have the disposable income to try it out, go for
it. Some men might find that having a custom garment made is almost a
necessity for their wardrobe because of their frame. Now, if that is you in that
particular situation, the good news is there are a plethora of great options to
find to be able to have jackets, trousers, and shirts made that are much more cost
effective. Now, perhaps if you’re finding that going custom is a little bit too
expensive, there is one area in between off the rack and custom that you can
utilize, it’s called made to measure. Now, made-to-measure is a great option to
utilize if you’ve got the time. It is template-based,
a little bit more cost-effective than going full custom and you can choose
different options to personalize the garment for yourself. Now, once
you’ve got this great outfit put together whether you bought it in store
or had it made for you, we’ve got to add some great details to make it stand out.
Ties is our next topic. If you’re a man who already wears a tie from time to
time, I’m sure you already know the importance of finding the correct length
for your tie. Big and tall men, in particular, usually have a much more
difficult time finding that correct length for their ties. Now, this
difficulty can sometimes stem from having a large neck circumference
sometimes mixed with also having a very long torso. Some brands may carry ties in
both a regular and an extra long option. To view some great tie options in both
lengths, check out Fort Belvedere now. Some people when they get dressed, do all
they can to put on size and make themselves look a little bit bigger but
if you’re already a big and tall gentleman, you might be looking for some
ways to appear leaner. One way you can appear a little bit leaner is by paying
attention to the scale of the pattern in which you’re dressing yourself with. Now,
the scale or size of the pattern and the type of pattern you’re choosing to wear
can make you look larger or smaller. The wide scale patterns like a buffalo
checked shirt tend to make the wearer look much broader.
If this is not your goal, try wearing small to medium sized check patterns, for
example, and avoid horizontal stripes. Having narrow pinstripes on a shirt or
pants or a chalk stripe on a jacket of a suit, for example, are another great way
to make the wearer appear a little bit leaner. Our research has shown that
exceptionally small patterns can also make a big and tall gentleman look
bigger because they’ve got more room that they’re wearing this pattern with.
So medium to small size patterns are usually the best way to go. Now, next
within the category of looking leaner, we’re gonna pay attention to color. A
light and bright color like a white or pastel blue are more eye-catching and
can add volume to the wearer. To avoid appearing larger than you are, try
wearing dark color above the light color. Darker colors like black and navy, for
example, have the tendency to make things look a little bit smaller. Next, we’re
going to talk about eyewear. It’s important to understand when choosing
eyewear what your face shape is. Now, some common face shapes that many people will
find that they have are square, diamond, heart, oval. Many
people that have an oval-shaped face find that they have a wider variety of
options when shopping for eyewear. Those with a diamond, heart, or square shaped
faces will need to find other choices that will help balance out their face
shape. For example, if you have a square face, try choosing a circular frame.
Please take note, though, that not everyone will easily fall into one of
these different face shape categories due to everyone’s unique traits. Some
people might have attributes of a multitude of different face shapes. Once
you have found the correct face shape, it’s important to also find the correct
width. Some of us, myself included, are so smart that we have got extra-large heads
for all this knowledge. Now, because of this extra width some men might have,
it’s important to find eyewear that lands squarely over the ear as opposed
to something that is too narrow. By having eyewear that looks too narrow is
certainly a common problem that some gentlemen in the Big & Tall category
might have. But it’s also possible to find eyewear that looks too wide, make
sure the width of the glasses fall naturally just off the width of your
temples. Do the temple arms tend to bend when you look at yourself in the mirror?
If so, you should probably try a slightly wider pair to help alleviate this
problem. Also, some manufacturers make their eyewear with a spring hinge which
gives much more comfort and ease for the wearer. Now, just to recap, remember
there are a number of places to shop for the big and tall gentlemen. When it comes
to shirts, make sure you’re in the right fit, you know your neck size, and you’re.
getting enough length in that sleeve Remember with pants, we want to be in the
correct fit, you have the right waist size and you’re in the right inseam. For
more information about pleats and other details about pants, check out this great
video from the Gentleman’s Gazette. Also, don’t try to follow fad or trendy
different design trends that might not complement your physique, find those
small to medium size patterns and a color combination you enjoy and
incorporating those things into your wardrobe and remember, if you have the
disposable income, you could always get one or two pieces from a custom clothier
as well. Today, I’m wearing a wool based made-to-measure jacket navy plaid with
some really cool silver gray button hole detailing. I’ve got a light-gray made-to-measure trouser on and I have
black dress boots from Cole Haan.


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